My zodiac departure time was 0705 hours. I wasn’t planning on going. But it was a postcard perfect morning. And old Carlton got into my head with shut up suit up show up.
Off into Misty Fjords.Racing back to the boat. It’s toasty warm. I am at the back of the boat. Another boat driver from Kona.Last look of Roald Amunsen and my home for the last two weeks.
They are putting the boats away for the last time on this voyage.
My personal adventure today was slipping in a puddle and rather gracefully landing on my butt. I was taking my exercise laps on the top deck. I decided that I was exercised enough for one day. I took a nap instead of finishing up my laps. A final look at at Wrangell
Sea Day tomorrow. Also packing day. 2 sleeps on the ship. 2 sleeps in Vancouver. 3 sleeps on the train. Then back at the Asylum. The Asylum is having a Covid outbreak. Wreckage of the future.
Mount Dewey 300 Feet. How hard could it be?Looking up.But I have to get back down. And I hate down.The view from the top.
This morning I tackled Mt. Dewey. Yes, tackled. At my age, a half-mile boardwalk/staircase trail is a mountain. The views from the top? Lovely. Trees, water, boats…
Feeling bold (and still upright), I even followed the spur trail. It climbs just a bit higher, but enough to remind you that knees don’t last forever. I didn’t see any mountain goats up there—just a few other hikers, none of whom congratulated me with a medal. (Rude.)
After a graceful descent (meaning: I didn’t fall), I turned my attention to Wrangell’s geological bling: garnets.
Seven miles north of town lies Garnet Ledge, home to Wrangell’s famous almandine garnets. These deep red stones were once mined by Alaska’s first all-women–owned mining company—seriously badass. Today, mining rights belong to the children of Wrangell, who sell the garnets as part summer job, part tradition, and part small-town magic.
I met one such young entrepreneur—a polite, well-informed kid with a bag of rocks. He showed me various garnets, explained the difference between “in the rock” and “busted out,” and sold me a nice round one. Wrangell Alaska where the sidewalks are paved wih rubies
In town, the garnets are quite literally underfoot. The sidewalks are speckled with garnet schist, making the streets twinkle if the sun cooperates. Locals call them Alaskan rubies. They won’t make you rich, but they’ll absolutely make you smile. Thanks to Chat GPT for helping with today’s post. It’s easier than typing using the phone.
I find myself exhausted. 16,716 steps and 7.57 miles will do that to you at 80+
Gratitude
Damn grateful to be able to do 7.57 miles. I did take 3 ibuprofen with dinner!
Since I am tired, I asked ChatGPT to retell one of my favorite Sitka stories.
Sitka, Alaska — Where Even the Volcano Has a Sense of Humor
Back in 1974, Sitka pulled off what might be the best April Fools’ prank in Alaska history—and possibly anywhere. Locals awoke to find black smoke pouring out of Mount Edgecumbe, the friendly dormant volcano that normally just sits there minding its own business across the water.
Naturally, people assumed it had decided to un-dormant itself.
Turns out, it wasn’t Mother Nature acting up—it was a guy named “Porky” Bickar, who chartered a helicopter, flew 70 old tires into the crater, and lit them on fire. He even spray-painted a giant “APRIL FOOL” in the snow, just in case anyone missed the punchline. The Coast Guard scrambled a chopper. The town held its breath. Porky? He just sat back and enjoyed the show.
No lava. No ash. Just a well-cooked joke with a side of rubber smoke. Welcome to Sitka, where the scenery is gorgeous and the pranks are legendary.
First. I went looking for Malasadas. Unfortunately the malasada truck was closed July 17-21. Darn.Next, go check the beaches.Look for wild flowers.Finally, the totems at Sitka National Historical Park
Oh yeah, I bought a pair of earrings. Gotta support the local economy.
0649am. Well, this must be Icy Bay. I see ice. And maybe sun?
Up and about early this morning because my zodiac time starts at 0830.
Ok, my 9 new besties and I make it into the zodiac. One of the women in the zodiac was with me on the NW Passage trip in 2023.Our zodiac driver is from Kona. This doesn’t look like Kona.We make it as close to the glacier as the rules allow.We can actually see Mt. St. Elias. The second tallest mountain in North America. According to the ship’s captain. 18,008 feet.Back on the boat and out of my gear, it’s a lovely day to get in some aerobics on the to deck.Then hit the jacuzzi and pool. Skip the sauna. But, for some reason I let someone take my picture.
I don’t think yesterday went as Hurtigruten had hoped. I suspect that two of the early days were for the SERIOUS bird people. And then there were two days for the land mammal people. We did see bears on tsunami day near Katmai. But yesterday was supposed to be Kodiak bears and moose.
Our zodiac group saw: one generic red fox. One sea otter. One deer. Another generic red fox and two eagles. A seal. Oh and a dead jellyfish. We were to last group out and our boat driver said we saw more than any of the earlier groups. I got everyone one our boat to get off talking about how many bears we saw.
Tomorrow we will be zodiacing around IcyBay. Which may or may not be icy. About 10 years ago, icy bay had a huge tsunami 300+ feet. No one was hurt. Nothing was damaged. No one even knew it happened until it registered on some device in Boston. Tsunamis love bays.
Yesterday’s mammal quest.
Saturday is IcyBay. Sunday is Sitka. I am pretty sure we can get off the boat there. I enjoyed Sitka greatly when I was there 3 years ago. But the voyage is winding down. All too soon it will be Wednesday and we’ll be heading to Vancouver.
I am sure that the captain woke more than a few folks up this morning at 7am when he came on the PA to announce the evacuation. It was rumored to be an appendix problem.
In good time we are underway to Uyak Bay, Kodiak Island. I hoped we would dock in exciting downtown Kodiak. But no. We are on the lee side of the island once again confined to the Zodiacs. My zodiac time is on hour from now.
Uyak Bay is not uninhabited. It seem to have some commercial fishing activity.
Fishing boats heading out this morning.
We are anchored by this small fish processing enterprise.
Tomorrow is a sea day. Then another zodiac only day. Then we will be in the south eastern Alaska normal tourist zone.
Like yesterday, today we have zodiac rides but no landings.
Unlike yesterday I decide that I must go on one of the trips. So, at 9am, I am bouncing along on Geographic Bay, Katmai NP.
Bears on the beach.Eagle in the bushes.By the time we get back to the mothership it’s pouring.
Back on the ship, I am grateful to Patagonia because I am dry. Not everyone in the Zodiac was. I decided to pass on the late afternoon zodiac trek. Looking for bears.
But soon, the captain says there’s a tsunami alert and we must get to deeper waters asap.
Waiting for the tsunami…
The area is no stranger to tsunamis. Every place we’ve stopped that had people also had tsunami escape routes noted. But, I don’t recall seeing warning sirens like we have in Hawai’i. This sign was in St Paul.
Any how, apparently no significant tsunami action, so we are underway again. I think it’s Kodiak tomorrow. Maybe we can go ashore.
Last night they told us we were going to Aniakchak.This morning were arrived in Aniakchak.I carefully inspected Aniakchak from the top deck of the ship and saw no reason to get in a zodiac to see it closer up. Especially since we had to stay on the zodiacs because the ship didn’t know about the bear status in Aniakchak.
I decided to take the day off. Even Le Tour takes days off. When I was much younger I insisted on taking every 6th day off from traveling and/or having fun. I have been on this adventure for over 10 days. I need my downtime. And my old spine sure didn’t need an hour in a zodiac.
Today’s only adventure-the window cleaner came by while I was having lunch.
And, I haven’t a clue what’s on tap for tomorrow. Kodiak maybe. Maybe not. Will find out after dinner. This is vegetarian night. As long as they have beer and dessert it’s all good. Now. Maybe hit the hot tubs?
According to ChatGPT:
Today’s stop: Unga Island, population: moss. Once a bustling Aleut fishing village, now it’s a masterclass in scenic decay. Think “Pinterest-worthy ghost town” meets “Alaskan nature reclaiming her security deposit.” The buildings are tilting, the seabirds are judging, and the wildflowers are having a field day (literally). It felt like walking through a very quiet, very windy history book—with no page numbers, but plenty of personality.
I wasn’t going to go ashore. Rotting buildings and wild cows? But Carlton can still push my buttons. Shut up. Suit up. Show up.
I suit up.I show up for the zodiacs.I didn’t see any of the wild cows. But I am sure the were not far away.The young people went for a swim. One man described it as “cold and short”.There are lots of birds. Those white specks are birds, remember, I sold my real camera gear as a part of “death cleaning”I tried to get the zodiac driver to go inspect the puka in the rock to no avail.
Tomorrow I think we’ll be having zodiac rides. Don’t know if we’ll be going ashore. Doesn’t much matter, it’s all good.
Eagles that even a cell phone can capture.Excellent signs.Wonderful flowers. Cranesbill or woolly geranium.And a Coast Guard icebreaker heading out for summer vacation.
And it was 53 degrees. So what’s not to love?
I walked over 6 miles taking in all the goodness. So, I am tired. But grateful that I am able to get out to do easy stuff.
Oh, and before I forget, Dramamine is cheaper Dutch Harbor than in Falls Church.
A totally lazy day. We are charging along at 6 knots. I think that’s about 3 miles per hour. And i can walk faster than that. Apparently we aren’t in any rush and the fearsome Bering Sea is like a lake. The sea goddess will take her revenge later in the voyage.
My much deserved afternoon nap (not to be confused with the morning nap) was interrupted with an announcement of whales on the port side. My cabin is starboard. Since it’s time for coffee and cookies, I come out. Indeed there are orca. Nope, no pictures.
But there were plenty of people out shooting whales.
It makes me happy seeing people so excited about whales.
The exercise yard this morning.And the pool and hot tubs.
There is also a very fine sauna.
Cormorants from yesterday
Also from yesterday: flowers.
Cow parsnips.The unfortunately named whorled lousewort.This phlox like plant is a skunk leaf polemonium. I guess it does not have a very fine name either.Lupine
Tomorrow it will be Dutch Harbor. I suspect we will be able to get ashore on the tenders.
